We hear a lot these days that we should be a Pack Leader to our dogs. And it's true that dogs thrive when they follow the Pack Leader, and suffer if there is no clear direction from above. Why is this?
Dogs have been companions to man for no less than 15,000 years. So we tend to forget that dogs are actually built on the platform of wolf. DNA testing shows that our pet dogs today and very closely related to their wolf ancestors. Wolves form close knit societies, known as packs. Dogs are also pack animals, although millenia of domestication may have prepared them to be more adaptable to changing pack structures than wolves.
Still, dogs depend on leadership.
What do Pack Leaders do? Leaders set rules, boundaries and limitations on the behavior of their packmates. Or, according to the ultimate Dog Whisperer, Cesar Millan, good Pack Leaders do this. I spoke to a child psychiatrist who told me that children also depend upon their parents to have boundaries and rules set for their lives. If parents do not structure the lives of their children, then youngsters beccome neurotic or aggressive because subconsciously, they do not feel safe.
How can you, a human Pack Leader, easily set rules, boundaries and limitations for your dogs? Simply control your dog's resources. Resources are the "stuff of life," or anything your dog needs or wants.
Let's put this in human terms first. If your two year old child tries to stuff his face with candy bars at WalMart, we stop him. (We're controlling food.) If your four year old child tries to run into traffic, we stop him. (We're controlling space.) And if your eight year old child doesn't want to do her homework, we sit her down and help her through it. (We're controlling activity.)
We control resources for children every day. If you want to borrow the car, then mow the lawn first. If you want to go out with your friends, then clean your room first. If you want to play a video game, then finish your homework first. And on it goes.
But with our dogs, we tend to give them access to everything while holding them accountable for nothing. Here is a brief list of suggestions designed to earn you more respect from your dog by becoming a better Pack Leader.
1. Before feeding your dog, ask her to sit and wait. Don't put the bowl down until she has done a 10 second sit. You may want to have your dog on leash until she becomes reliable.
2. Do not feed your dog all at once. Divide her meal into three portions, and ask her for that sit before you give each portion.
3. Do not allow your dog to walk through a door before you. You might need to use a leash at first, but when you crack the door open, make sure your body is blocking the dog so you can exit first. Eventually, your dog will get out of your way and let you out first.
4. Petting doesn't always have to be free. Sometimes you can and should charge your dog for affection. If your dog is simply demanding your attention by pawing or barking at you, do not pet her. Instead, give her a simple command that she understands, such as sit or come. Then you can reward your dog for a job well done.
5. When walking your dog, do not permit her to pull. Instead, teach her to walk calmly by your side. Many owners struggle hugely with this issue so you might need a bit of professional help. We teach polite leash walking to client dogs in just minutes. So feel free to contact us if we can help you.
Remember, dogs follow a Pack Leader. Who makes the rules in your house?
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Thursday, December 4, 2008
How to find a dog trainer
I have been working with dogs since I was 12 years old so it has always been my passion. As a child, I mentored under some of the foremost dog behavior experts in the country, and now count among my friends many famous trainers and celebrities with whom I have worked.
Currently, I am President of the International Association of Canine Professionals. IACP is the trade group for dog trainers with over 1,400 members. You can find professional dog people all over the world by going to the IACP web site at www.dogpro.org.
I mention all this because selecting a dog trainer for your pets can be a daunting task. Due diligence in this industry is not always easy because there are many conflicting approaches. Too many dog trainers are harsh which is not only unnecessary, but immoral. Many other trainers are not necessarily harsh, but are ineffective which means you may not always get what you pay for.
Our system of training takes advantage of all the dogs' natural instincts to collaborate and to thrive on cooperating with their owner. Dogs who are selectively obedient or stubborn usually become softer, gentler and far happier.
Timid dogs come out of their shell and gain confidence and balance. We use a variety of tools, which we select in discussion with the owners, but the system of gentle, fair but effective training is always our hallmark regardless of the training tool. This is why we guarantee our training for the lifetime of the dog. We don't often have to re-train, but on the rare occasion when we do, we're happy to assist the family to capitalize on an excellent and loving relationship with their pets.
We live here on our small dog farm with a very select few dogs at a time so everyone has a great deal of personal attention, supervised play groups, along with a profound and happy learning experience.
Currently, I am President of the International Association of Canine Professionals. IACP is the trade group for dog trainers with over 1,400 members. You can find professional dog people all over the world by going to the IACP web site at www.dogpro.org.
I mention all this because selecting a dog trainer for your pets can be a daunting task. Due diligence in this industry is not always easy because there are many conflicting approaches. Too many dog trainers are harsh which is not only unnecessary, but immoral. Many other trainers are not necessarily harsh, but are ineffective which means you may not always get what you pay for.
Our system of training takes advantage of all the dogs' natural instincts to collaborate and to thrive on cooperating with their owner. Dogs who are selectively obedient or stubborn usually become softer, gentler and far happier.
Timid dogs come out of their shell and gain confidence and balance. We use a variety of tools, which we select in discussion with the owners, but the system of gentle, fair but effective training is always our hallmark regardless of the training tool. This is why we guarantee our training for the lifetime of the dog. We don't often have to re-train, but on the rare occasion when we do, we're happy to assist the family to capitalize on an excellent and loving relationship with their pets.
We live here on our small dog farm with a very select few dogs at a time so everyone has a great deal of personal attention, supervised play groups, along with a profound and happy learning experience.
Friday, October 31, 2008
The Power of Dogs
Can you explain why learning foreign language commands is just as easy for a dog as learning their first language?
The language of dogs is physical while communication among humans is largely verbal. This does not mean our language is richer than theirs. They can actually ‘speak’ to one another quicker than we can. A simple squint of the eye can mean ‘come no closer.’ A play bow is a clear invitation.
Having lived with man for at least 15,000 years according to scientists, dogs have learned to interpret our body language nearly as well as their own. Couple certain body language with the English word ‘heel,’ and dogs learn what it means. They learn it equally well when using the same body language, you say the German word ‘foos.’
What types of motion are dogs great at detecting? Do you have a story about a dog who noticed a miniscule movement?
Different breeds of dogs have varying responses to motion. Sighthounds such as Greyhounds respond to movement on the horizon. This instinct goes back to the formation of the breed nearly 5,000 years ago when they were bred to run down game on the Egyptian desert.
Why do dogs have such great motion detection skills?
Our best friend fits into our lives so well that we sometimes forget he is a predator. The dog is blessed with a portion of the brain that instinctually responds to movement and triggers a response. DNA shows us that dogs are close descendants of wolves. Even today’s companion animals are not far from their predator roots. Thus, they respond to movement as any land predator would. Shake a toy in front of a Jack Russell Terrier, originally a ratting breed. Even one who has never seen a rat will respond by chasing, catching and shaking the toy, precisely emulating the hunt.
What was the most smile-eliciting thing that you ever saw a dog do?
My Greyhound Bobbi was a registered therapy dog. We made many visits to hospitals and nursing homes to comfort the patients. Marklund Home is a facility in the Chicago area for profoundly brain damaged children. We visited a class of these beautiful kids and showed them Bobbi’s tricks.
Afterward, a nurse asked if Bobbi could spend a moment with an 8 year old boy in her care. “Danny” as I’ll call him had sustained a traumatic brain injury rendering him not quite vegetative. Danny could not sit up by himself, so the nurse cradled him in her lap and I walked Bobbi up to the little boy.
My big white Greyhound nudged the boy’s hand, but he could not respond. I thought Bobbi would then solicit attention from the nurse instead. But she did not. She lay down and rested her head in Danny’s lap. She promptly fell asleep.
The nurse and I just looked at one another. Both of us were aware that something was happening, but I, for one, was not quite sure what it was. So I simply stood there and let whatever “it” was happen. Danny made facial expressions, but to my eyes, Danny did not seem to be aware.
Ten minutes later Bobbi woke up, shook herself off and pulled me to the next child. As we were leaving, that nurse ran up to thank me.
“Thank you so much for letting Danny visit with your dog. He smiled!” she said.
I gently told her that I did not see Danny smile, and asked how she could be sure. It turned out this nurse had been Danny’s neighbor before the brain injury. She had known him his whole life.
“I’ve been very worried about him,” she told me. “He used to smile all the time,” she continued, “but he has taken a turn for the worse and I haven’t seen him smile in two weeks.”
By this time, both the nurse and I were crying. That was the most beautiful smile my dog ever brought from a person.
The language of dogs is physical while communication among humans is largely verbal. This does not mean our language is richer than theirs. They can actually ‘speak’ to one another quicker than we can. A simple squint of the eye can mean ‘come no closer.’ A play bow is a clear invitation.
Having lived with man for at least 15,000 years according to scientists, dogs have learned to interpret our body language nearly as well as their own. Couple certain body language with the English word ‘heel,’ and dogs learn what it means. They learn it equally well when using the same body language, you say the German word ‘foos.’
What types of motion are dogs great at detecting? Do you have a story about a dog who noticed a miniscule movement?
Different breeds of dogs have varying responses to motion. Sighthounds such as Greyhounds respond to movement on the horizon. This instinct goes back to the formation of the breed nearly 5,000 years ago when they were bred to run down game on the Egyptian desert.
Why do dogs have such great motion detection skills?
Our best friend fits into our lives so well that we sometimes forget he is a predator. The dog is blessed with a portion of the brain that instinctually responds to movement and triggers a response. DNA shows us that dogs are close descendants of wolves. Even today’s companion animals are not far from their predator roots. Thus, they respond to movement as any land predator would. Shake a toy in front of a Jack Russell Terrier, originally a ratting breed. Even one who has never seen a rat will respond by chasing, catching and shaking the toy, precisely emulating the hunt.
What was the most smile-eliciting thing that you ever saw a dog do?
My Greyhound Bobbi was a registered therapy dog. We made many visits to hospitals and nursing homes to comfort the patients. Marklund Home is a facility in the Chicago area for profoundly brain damaged children. We visited a class of these beautiful kids and showed them Bobbi’s tricks.
Afterward, a nurse asked if Bobbi could spend a moment with an 8 year old boy in her care. “Danny” as I’ll call him had sustained a traumatic brain injury rendering him not quite vegetative. Danny could not sit up by himself, so the nurse cradled him in her lap and I walked Bobbi up to the little boy.
My big white Greyhound nudged the boy’s hand, but he could not respond. I thought Bobbi would then solicit attention from the nurse instead. But she did not. She lay down and rested her head in Danny’s lap. She promptly fell asleep.
The nurse and I just looked at one another. Both of us were aware that something was happening, but I, for one, was not quite sure what it was. So I simply stood there and let whatever “it” was happen. Danny made facial expressions, but to my eyes, Danny did not seem to be aware.
Ten minutes later Bobbi woke up, shook herself off and pulled me to the next child. As we were leaving, that nurse ran up to thank me.
“Thank you so much for letting Danny visit with your dog. He smiled!” she said.
I gently told her that I did not see Danny smile, and asked how she could be sure. It turned out this nurse had been Danny’s neighbor before the brain injury. She had known him his whole life.
“I’ve been very worried about him,” she told me. “He used to smile all the time,” she continued, “but he has taken a turn for the worse and I haven’t seen him smile in two weeks.”
By this time, both the nurse and I were crying. That was the most beautiful smile my dog ever brought from a person.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Rainy weekend activities for dogs and their owners
Rain, rain, go away. All our dogs want to play!
Much of the country is rainbound this weekend and Chicagoland is no exception. We're cooped up with the dogs here at the happy dog farm. And that got me to thinking: What do we do with our dogs when they don't want to be outside for more than a quick potty?
The first thing we need to understand is that dogs are intelligent creatures, created to fulfill a function. In evolutionary terms, it is only in the last 80 or so years that dogs have been kept as pets, with no real responsibilities. It is no coincidence that the happiest dogs in the world are those who still find employment as service dogs, guiding the blind, herding sheep, in obedience competition, and so forth.
Today, most dogs collect unemployment in the form of free room and board with a great health plan, zero deductible, and as much petting and cooing as they can swallow. It's no wonder they get stir crazy on rainy weekends when they don't even get to move their bodies and use their brains on that short daily walk.
Imagine a healthy, intelligent 8 year old boy or girl cooped up in the house for days on end with no computer, no books, no television, no telephone and no exercise equipment. It's a recipe for disaster. For sure, you'll come home and find a fort built out of your best furniture, or a mosiac made out of pieces of the good china.
Intelligence combined with energy and no outlet equals trouble. No wonder our dogs get harder to live with in bad weather. Dog trainers like Marc Goldberg, an IACP Certified Dog Trainer from ChicagoDogTrainer.com recommend you play productive indoor games with your dog to use up some of that brain and body power.
As a child, I remember playing Hide and Go Seek for hours on rainy days. It was a great way for kids to use move their bodies and use their brains. Play Hide and Go Seek with your dog, using food as the object for them to find. Here's how you start.
Begin with a hungry dog. Show her a tasty treat, something high value like a small bit of chicken, and toss it on the floor in front of her. Tell her "find it." That won't be difficult as it's in plain sight. However, toss the next treat around a corner so it lands out of sight. Tell her "find it" again. Slowly work your way up to hiding the treats behind curtains, under furniture, eventually in other rooms. Get her started by pointing in the right direction.
If your dog is well trained, she can be on a sit stay while you're hiding the food. If not, then you may have to close her in another room for a moment. In short order, you can simply point in the general direction of the food, and your dog will use her nose to find the source of that delicious smell.
Although this activity might seem less exhausting that a run in the park, the fact is that your dog will be actively using her strongest sense, the sense of smell. The olfactory center of your dog's brain occupies a tremendous amount of resources. This means that working scent busily for 15 or 20 minutes can be quite tiring.
If you have a treadmill in your home, bad weather days offer the perfect opportunity to teach your dog to use this equipment. Start with a hungry, leashed dog and another bit of chicken. Turn off the treadmill. Simply lure the dog up onto the belt and reward with the treat. Do this multiple times, then quit without ever turning it on.
Several times per day, bring your dog near the treadmill. Be sure you use a flat buckle collar, not a slip collar. Within a couple of days, most dogs will happily hop up on the treadmill waiting for that treat. This is the time to accustom your dog to walking on the machine. Be sure it is level, with no incline. Hold your dog's leash close to the collar, but leave it a little bit slack. Turn the machine on to it's slowest level. Encourage your dog to walk by holding the leash or collar and giving verbal encouragement.
Be prepared to quickly turn off the machine if your dog becomes frightened. Just reward again a few more times while the machine is turned on, making its noise, but with the dog held several feet away on leash.
In short order your dog will hop up on the treadmill and be ready to go for his rainy day walk. Be aware that some dogs are more comfortable at the walk, while others work better at a trot. Play with the speeds very slowly so you don't frighten your dog.
Most important of all, never tie your dog onto the machine. You must be there, holding the leash or collar, ready to hit the treamill's emergency stop button in case something goes wrong.
Rainy weekend? Pull out those raing day games and let your dog exercise her body and her brain!
Much of the country is rainbound this weekend and Chicagoland is no exception. We're cooped up with the dogs here at the happy dog farm. And that got me to thinking: What do we do with our dogs when they don't want to be outside for more than a quick potty?
The first thing we need to understand is that dogs are intelligent creatures, created to fulfill a function. In evolutionary terms, it is only in the last 80 or so years that dogs have been kept as pets, with no real responsibilities. It is no coincidence that the happiest dogs in the world are those who still find employment as service dogs, guiding the blind, herding sheep, in obedience competition, and so forth.
Today, most dogs collect unemployment in the form of free room and board with a great health plan, zero deductible, and as much petting and cooing as they can swallow. It's no wonder they get stir crazy on rainy weekends when they don't even get to move their bodies and use their brains on that short daily walk.
Imagine a healthy, intelligent 8 year old boy or girl cooped up in the house for days on end with no computer, no books, no television, no telephone and no exercise equipment. It's a recipe for disaster. For sure, you'll come home and find a fort built out of your best furniture, or a mosiac made out of pieces of the good china.
Intelligence combined with energy and no outlet equals trouble. No wonder our dogs get harder to live with in bad weather. Dog trainers like Marc Goldberg, an IACP Certified Dog Trainer from ChicagoDogTrainer.com recommend you play productive indoor games with your dog to use up some of that brain and body power.
As a child, I remember playing Hide and Go Seek for hours on rainy days. It was a great way for kids to use move their bodies and use their brains. Play Hide and Go Seek with your dog, using food as the object for them to find. Here's how you start.
Begin with a hungry dog. Show her a tasty treat, something high value like a small bit of chicken, and toss it on the floor in front of her. Tell her "find it." That won't be difficult as it's in plain sight. However, toss the next treat around a corner so it lands out of sight. Tell her "find it" again. Slowly work your way up to hiding the treats behind curtains, under furniture, eventually in other rooms. Get her started by pointing in the right direction.
If your dog is well trained, she can be on a sit stay while you're hiding the food. If not, then you may have to close her in another room for a moment. In short order, you can simply point in the general direction of the food, and your dog will use her nose to find the source of that delicious smell.
Although this activity might seem less exhausting that a run in the park, the fact is that your dog will be actively using her strongest sense, the sense of smell. The olfactory center of your dog's brain occupies a tremendous amount of resources. This means that working scent busily for 15 or 20 minutes can be quite tiring.
If you have a treadmill in your home, bad weather days offer the perfect opportunity to teach your dog to use this equipment. Start with a hungry, leashed dog and another bit of chicken. Turn off the treadmill. Simply lure the dog up onto the belt and reward with the treat. Do this multiple times, then quit without ever turning it on.
Several times per day, bring your dog near the treadmill. Be sure you use a flat buckle collar, not a slip collar. Within a couple of days, most dogs will happily hop up on the treadmill waiting for that treat. This is the time to accustom your dog to walking on the machine. Be sure it is level, with no incline. Hold your dog's leash close to the collar, but leave it a little bit slack. Turn the machine on to it's slowest level. Encourage your dog to walk by holding the leash or collar and giving verbal encouragement.
Be prepared to quickly turn off the machine if your dog becomes frightened. Just reward again a few more times while the machine is turned on, making its noise, but with the dog held several feet away on leash.
In short order your dog will hop up on the treadmill and be ready to go for his rainy day walk. Be aware that some dogs are more comfortable at the walk, while others work better at a trot. Play with the speeds very slowly so you don't frighten your dog.
Most important of all, never tie your dog onto the machine. You must be there, holding the leash or collar, ready to hit the treamill's emergency stop button in case something goes wrong.
Rainy weekend? Pull out those raing day games and let your dog exercise her body and her brain!
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Monday Night Football, um, dog training
Well it must be football season for Marc Goldberg and the trainers from ChicagoDogTrainer.com. This month we have dogs in from star players from both the Chicago Bears and the Cleveland Browns. To protect their privacy, we won't mention which players are involved, but they are names you'd know.
Football players and their families have the same goals as every one else. They want to have a happy family experience with their dogs.
Later, when these NFL player dogs go home, we hope to have permission to share their stories with you here and on our web site at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com.
Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
Football players and their families have the same goals as every one else. They want to have a happy family experience with their dogs.
Later, when these NFL player dogs go home, we hope to have permission to share their stories with you here and on our web site at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com.
Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
Friday, September 12, 2008
To bed or not to bed...that is the question
One of the most frequent assumptions people make is that a dog trainer will scold them for allowing their dog to sleep in bed with them. But the reality is that some professional dog trainers sleep in bed with THEIR dogs! So why the contraversy?
The reality is that sleeping in bed is a privlege. If the dog earns the privelege...and doesn't abuse it...I find no reason to boot your dog out of bed. How can a dog abuse the privlege? Ah, that's where all the dog psychology comes into play.
Dogs who respect their owners, are not destrcutive, are not commonly defiant, who never growl at or bite family members, dogs who don't suffer from separation anxiety--these guys are great candidates to sleep in bed with you. Why? Because they are well balanced, cooperative dogs. So if you enjoy sharing your bed with them, no worries.
The question remains, then, why not sleep in bed with the less balanced dog? "What can it hurt? Won't it bring us closer? Besides, I like it!"
Well of course you like it! Studies show that just stroking a dog lowers your blood pressure. Having that dog snoring snoring softly by your side all night provides a sense of well being and comfort to the human.
But in any relationship, we must consider the best interests and happiness of both parties. Yes, it benefits you to sleep with your dog, but how does this intimate sharing of sleeping space affect the dog himself?
Get ready for the dog psychology lesson now!
Because you spend more time being still in your bedroom than any other place, your bedroom, and especially your bed, smell more like you than any other place on earth. The dog's sense of smell is 10,000 times more sensitive than our own. Thus, he is well aware that sleeping next to you, bathing in your scent, gives him special status. For a balanced, well behaved dog, the special status is trust. That status causes no problems because your dog earns that trust every day.
For unbalanced, misbehaving or anxious dogs, the special status is power. Or at least that is how the dog interprets this privlege. In the wild, the canine who sleeps in the choicest spot is the Leader. The one who sleeps closest to the Leader is second in charge. It is normal in the dog world for a certain amount of competition to take place between the lead and second dogs. Thus, by permitting an unbalanced dog to sleep with you, you're actually encouraging him to challenge your authority.
This challenge does not always take the form of aggression directed at you. It can be much more subtle than that. If your dog does not respect your authority to place his body in a crate, he'll howl and bark for hours. If he does not respect your right to leave him to go to work, he'll chew apart your house. And so it goes.
If you sense any competition whatsoever between your children and your dog, here is more food for thought. In the human world, status is accorded by giving your child his own room. Your child has more status than the dog because the child has his own, private sleeping space.
But in the world of dogs, the least powerful, lowest status dogs sleep the farthest from the Leader. So your dog will be convinced that you are telling him that you grant him more power than your child because you have forced your child to sleep apart from you, while you permit your dog to snuggle against you all night.
That different view, your dog's view, can become important if your dog ever growls at your child over food, space on the sofa, or for possession of a toy. The only way to show your dog that he does not have more status than your child is to be sure that the canine does not believe that he has more status than your kids.
So the long and the short of it is this: if your dog sleeps with you and he's not nervous, destructive, aggressive or disobedient...enjoy sharing the covers. Otherwise, you might want to snuggle up with a teddy bear. They don't eat the house or growl at the kids!
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
The reality is that sleeping in bed is a privlege. If the dog earns the privelege...and doesn't abuse it...I find no reason to boot your dog out of bed. How can a dog abuse the privlege? Ah, that's where all the dog psychology comes into play.
Dogs who respect their owners, are not destrcutive, are not commonly defiant, who never growl at or bite family members, dogs who don't suffer from separation anxiety--these guys are great candidates to sleep in bed with you. Why? Because they are well balanced, cooperative dogs. So if you enjoy sharing your bed with them, no worries.
The question remains, then, why not sleep in bed with the less balanced dog? "What can it hurt? Won't it bring us closer? Besides, I like it!"
Well of course you like it! Studies show that just stroking a dog lowers your blood pressure. Having that dog snoring snoring softly by your side all night provides a sense of well being and comfort to the human.
But in any relationship, we must consider the best interests and happiness of both parties. Yes, it benefits you to sleep with your dog, but how does this intimate sharing of sleeping space affect the dog himself?
Get ready for the dog psychology lesson now!
Because you spend more time being still in your bedroom than any other place, your bedroom, and especially your bed, smell more like you than any other place on earth. The dog's sense of smell is 10,000 times more sensitive than our own. Thus, he is well aware that sleeping next to you, bathing in your scent, gives him special status. For a balanced, well behaved dog, the special status is trust. That status causes no problems because your dog earns that trust every day.
For unbalanced, misbehaving or anxious dogs, the special status is power. Or at least that is how the dog interprets this privlege. In the wild, the canine who sleeps in the choicest spot is the Leader. The one who sleeps closest to the Leader is second in charge. It is normal in the dog world for a certain amount of competition to take place between the lead and second dogs. Thus, by permitting an unbalanced dog to sleep with you, you're actually encouraging him to challenge your authority.
This challenge does not always take the form of aggression directed at you. It can be much more subtle than that. If your dog does not respect your authority to place his body in a crate, he'll howl and bark for hours. If he does not respect your right to leave him to go to work, he'll chew apart your house. And so it goes.
If you sense any competition whatsoever between your children and your dog, here is more food for thought. In the human world, status is accorded by giving your child his own room. Your child has more status than the dog because the child has his own, private sleeping space.
But in the world of dogs, the least powerful, lowest status dogs sleep the farthest from the Leader. So your dog will be convinced that you are telling him that you grant him more power than your child because you have forced your child to sleep apart from you, while you permit your dog to snuggle against you all night.
That different view, your dog's view, can become important if your dog ever growls at your child over food, space on the sofa, or for possession of a toy. The only way to show your dog that he does not have more status than your child is to be sure that the canine does not believe that he has more status than your kids.
So the long and the short of it is this: if your dog sleeps with you and he's not nervous, destructive, aggressive or disobedient...enjoy sharing the covers. Otherwise, you might want to snuggle up with a teddy bear. They don't eat the house or growl at the kids!
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
How to become a dog trainer
The question people most often ask me is “How do I stop my dog from jumping?” The second most frequently asked question is, “How can I become a professional dog trainer?”
Before making any life altering decisions, I always advise people to first ask themselves not “how” to become a trainer, but first, “why?” There are excellent reasons to join this profession. Then there are not-so-good reasons.
The worst reasons to become a dog trainer are because you want to be self employed and make a lot of money. Or because dog trainers are in charge and get to be powerful people. That you love dogs, although critical to your eventual success as a trainer, is not necessarily the best reason either.
If you come into the trade for the wrong reasons, you may be disappointed, and quickly. I believe the best reasons to become a dog trainer include multiple factors among which are: You love dogs. You have great people and communication skills. You’re a motivated self-starter. You are entrepreneurial with an interest in sales and marketing. You like to teach.
Yes, loving dogs certainly comes into play. But that affection for the species is only part of the equation because you don’t get to train a single dog until you persuade the owner to hire you. That’s where your sales and marketing skills come in. Training dogs can be a fun hobby, even a profitable one. But if you intend to make a full time career of it, you’ll be answering your own phones, working crazy hours including most weekends, and take client calls at night. You’ll also arrange your own liability and health insurance, make your own tax deposits, and be ready to devote years to honing your craft.
If I haven’t scared you off yet….good! The profession of dog trainer is an honorable one and it allows you to make a big difference in the lives of people and their pets. For the right person, this is a highly rewarding job, and frankly, it’s fun!
So how do you become a dog trainer anyway? Although all roads lead to Rome, three ways stand out as routes to fulfilling your dream.
First, you can purchase a franchise. At least one franchise exists to put you instantly into the business. This company is highly rated from the standpoint of franchise watchdog groups. It is somewhat less highly rated on the part of some practicing dog trainers, less because it is competition, and more because the franchisee takes a course of only six to eight weeks, a course which is confined to only to the franchisor’s method. Some dog trainers believe this leaves you lacking exposure to other methods and lacking skills. Still, if you have fifty to seventy-five thousand dollars to invest right now you, too, can become an instant dog trainer. And with the franchise’s national marketing campaign, you won’t have to sell nearly as much as other dog trainers.
Second, you can attend one of the many schools designed to assist you in living the dream. Perhaps the only difficulty is sorting through all the schools to determine which actually give you what you need. Enrollment fees, quality and duration of study vary widely. Some schools are longtime institutions with good reputations. Others are fly by nighters with no credentials. Almost all offer “certification” to their students. To receive certification from some schools is an honor requiring much learning and testing. Other schools certify everyone who pays the fee. So when shopping schools, Let the Buyer Beware.
Here is a list of only a few of the schools offering dog training education right now. These are among the highly regarded possibilities, although there are others. So do careful research: Triple Crown Academy in Hutto, TX. National K9 in Columbus, OH. That’s My Dog! in Hazel Green, WI. International School for Dog Trainers in Montverde, FL. ChicagoDogTrainer.com in IL.
Enrolling in a school gives you the advantage of access to staff with decades of experience in the training and business aspects of this industry. The disadvantage is that you must leave home for a period of time and dedicate yourself to the learning experience. Most students report learning a great deal. Many go on to open their own businesses. Like all businesses, some succeed. Some do not.
The third way to begin a career as a dog professional is to find a highly regarded local trainer and take your dog through every one of their classes. Then, take a second dog through each class. By this time, you may be advanced enough to attract the trainer’s attention and you may be allowed to assist at classes. If not, then begin the process all over again with a new trainer, preferably one who uses a different method. In this way, you expose yourself to various training philosophies so you can select the one with which you are most comfortable. Simultaneously, read every book on the topic you can find.
The advantage of this method is that it is relatively economical and you don’t have to leave home. Most classes are offered in the evenings after work or on weekends. If you don’t decide to continue on the path of becoming a professional, you’ll have beautifully trained dogs. If you do continue, you’ll have an enormous head start due to all that practical experience.
Becoming a dog trainer need not take years to achieve. Becoming a great dog trainer always requires a commitment of time and effort. You will find additional resources available from the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP). You can find them on the web at www.dogpro.org. Even if you have limited experience, you can join as an Affiliate Member and gain access to many dog trainer publications and learning opportunities.
To arrive as a dog trainer is not necessarily easy. But it certainly is a wonderful career choice if you love both dogs and people plus have a head for business.
Before making any life altering decisions, I always advise people to first ask themselves not “how” to become a trainer, but first, “why?” There are excellent reasons to join this profession. Then there are not-so-good reasons.
The worst reasons to become a dog trainer are because you want to be self employed and make a lot of money. Or because dog trainers are in charge and get to be powerful people. That you love dogs, although critical to your eventual success as a trainer, is not necessarily the best reason either.
If you come into the trade for the wrong reasons, you may be disappointed, and quickly. I believe the best reasons to become a dog trainer include multiple factors among which are: You love dogs. You have great people and communication skills. You’re a motivated self-starter. You are entrepreneurial with an interest in sales and marketing. You like to teach.
Yes, loving dogs certainly comes into play. But that affection for the species is only part of the equation because you don’t get to train a single dog until you persuade the owner to hire you. That’s where your sales and marketing skills come in. Training dogs can be a fun hobby, even a profitable one. But if you intend to make a full time career of it, you’ll be answering your own phones, working crazy hours including most weekends, and take client calls at night. You’ll also arrange your own liability and health insurance, make your own tax deposits, and be ready to devote years to honing your craft.
If I haven’t scared you off yet….good! The profession of dog trainer is an honorable one and it allows you to make a big difference in the lives of people and their pets. For the right person, this is a highly rewarding job, and frankly, it’s fun!
So how do you become a dog trainer anyway? Although all roads lead to Rome, three ways stand out as routes to fulfilling your dream.
First, you can purchase a franchise. At least one franchise exists to put you instantly into the business. This company is highly rated from the standpoint of franchise watchdog groups. It is somewhat less highly rated on the part of some practicing dog trainers, less because it is competition, and more because the franchisee takes a course of only six to eight weeks, a course which is confined to only to the franchisor’s method. Some dog trainers believe this leaves you lacking exposure to other methods and lacking skills. Still, if you have fifty to seventy-five thousand dollars to invest right now you, too, can become an instant dog trainer. And with the franchise’s national marketing campaign, you won’t have to sell nearly as much as other dog trainers.
Second, you can attend one of the many schools designed to assist you in living the dream. Perhaps the only difficulty is sorting through all the schools to determine which actually give you what you need. Enrollment fees, quality and duration of study vary widely. Some schools are longtime institutions with good reputations. Others are fly by nighters with no credentials. Almost all offer “certification” to their students. To receive certification from some schools is an honor requiring much learning and testing. Other schools certify everyone who pays the fee. So when shopping schools, Let the Buyer Beware.
Here is a list of only a few of the schools offering dog training education right now. These are among the highly regarded possibilities, although there are others. So do careful research: Triple Crown Academy in Hutto, TX. National K9 in Columbus, OH. That’s My Dog! in Hazel Green, WI. International School for Dog Trainers in Montverde, FL. ChicagoDogTrainer.com in IL.
Enrolling in a school gives you the advantage of access to staff with decades of experience in the training and business aspects of this industry. The disadvantage is that you must leave home for a period of time and dedicate yourself to the learning experience. Most students report learning a great deal. Many go on to open their own businesses. Like all businesses, some succeed. Some do not.
The third way to begin a career as a dog professional is to find a highly regarded local trainer and take your dog through every one of their classes. Then, take a second dog through each class. By this time, you may be advanced enough to attract the trainer’s attention and you may be allowed to assist at classes. If not, then begin the process all over again with a new trainer, preferably one who uses a different method. In this way, you expose yourself to various training philosophies so you can select the one with which you are most comfortable. Simultaneously, read every book on the topic you can find.
The advantage of this method is that it is relatively economical and you don’t have to leave home. Most classes are offered in the evenings after work or on weekends. If you don’t decide to continue on the path of becoming a professional, you’ll have beautifully trained dogs. If you do continue, you’ll have an enormous head start due to all that practical experience.
Becoming a dog trainer need not take years to achieve. Becoming a great dog trainer always requires a commitment of time and effort. You will find additional resources available from the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP). You can find them on the web at www.dogpro.org. Even if you have limited experience, you can join as an Affiliate Member and gain access to many dog trainer publications and learning opportunities.
To arrive as a dog trainer is not necessarily easy. But it certainly is a wonderful career choice if you love both dogs and people plus have a head for business.
Monday, August 18, 2008
My answer to Keith and Maggie
Keith I'm really glad to hear from you. Your story really is an inspiration of owner commitment and dedication.
You are exactly right in that you showed Maggie what not to do, but then you went the extra step and helped her learn what to do instead of attacking. What you did was enable her natural ability to communicate peacefully with other dogs to come to the forefront.
Most dog to dog aggression is like Maggie's was...based on rusty or non-existent communication skills. Yet, dogs are pack animals, and biologically programmed to thrive in the company of their own species. It is only man's interjection that changes the natural order of things.
You have helped your dog back to a balanced place in the natural world. That is very good for her and her quality of life, to say nothing of your own.
Well done!
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
ForceFree Method...it's all about pack drive!
www.ChicagoDogTrainer.com
President, International Association of Canine Professionals
Flint River Ranch dog food distributor # 121096
IACP Professional Member #1099
Chicagoland, Illinois
You are exactly right in that you showed Maggie what not to do, but then you went the extra step and helped her learn what to do instead of attacking. What you did was enable her natural ability to communicate peacefully with other dogs to come to the forefront.
Most dog to dog aggression is like Maggie's was...based on rusty or non-existent communication skills. Yet, dogs are pack animals, and biologically programmed to thrive in the company of their own species. It is only man's interjection that changes the natural order of things.
You have helped your dog back to a balanced place in the natural world. That is very good for her and her quality of life, to say nothing of your own.
Well done!
Marc Goldberg, CDT
IACP Certified Dog Trainer
ForceFree Method...it's all about pack drive!
www.ChicagoDogTrainer.com
President, International Association of Canine Professionals
Flint River Ranch dog food distributor # 121096
IACP Professional Member #1099
Chicagoland, Illinois
Keith balances Maggie
Here is a great email from a client...
Hello Marc -
You may remember me - I worked with you over the summer of '06 with Maggie, a mixed-breed rescue, and Buddy, our Cocker Spaniel. I had been meaning to drop you a note to let you know that things are going very well with our dogs, and they get better and better all of the time.
I happened upon your blog and read your post about Diablo. Very sorry to read that you had to let him go. He was a spectacular dog. I remember how unbelievably calm he was, while Maggie was flying off the handle the first time that they were introduced. I think he deserves some credit for what you are about to read here.
You may recall that Maggie was a tough case around other dogs. It took us a while before we were able to take Maggie and Diablo around the block together. At one point, after several attempts at walking her towards Diablo and trying to get her to disengage, I remember you said that I might just have to cross the street when I saw another dog coming. My heart sank - but about 15 minutes later Maggie and Diablo were happily walking along side-by side, and I swore to myself that I was going to do everything in my power to teach Maggie how to politely socialize with unfamiliar dogs. I knew you would like to know that we have been successful with Maggie.
We went through an extended period of time where Maggie knew what NOT to do around an unfamiliar dog - but she still had no idea what she was supposed to DO. So, I simply immersed her in observing dogs interacting socially. I would take her to dog parks and let her watch the other dogs play. I would let her watch Buddy interact with other dogs from a distance. Finally, I started to let her approach calm dogs on our walk. You should have seen her body language! She just SCREAMED alpha! But she was able to communicate her 'princess' status, without triggering dominance or fear in the other dog, and in most cases the dog would submit, and she was able to finally experience sniffing, and being sniffed by, another dog.
In the last couple of weeks, Maggie has:
- Interacted with an enormous male Labrador - he barks at us when he first sees us, and runs over - but then takes a submissive posture and even lays down near her
- interacted similarly with a small male bloodhound
- Been charged by a barking Maltese, and used her body language to calm the dog down, sniffing each other and interacting, without another sound
- Had a female dog, about the same size, walk up unseen behind her, and shove it's nose right in her rump. Again, no growl, no snarl, no snap - just polite interaction
- played with a golden retriever pup on a walk - a pup who was very excited, putting his paws in her face, etc. She would growl to correct, and the pup would roll over for her. This was HUGE - an oncoming leash-walked dog was one of her worst triggers
- Had a play date with the male german shepard mix puppy next door - this is an excited dog with a strong dominant streak. He wouldn't let up, and she made a lot of noise to try to correct him - and even snapped - but never made contact. I am working with my neighbor to help him increase his control over this wonderful pup. They now greet each other politely at the fence, and we will have another play date soon.
- Had a very polite exchange with a calm but curious off-leash collie. I had Maggie on a long leash and I actually had this collie following us around the field! Maggie simply sniffed the collie and accepted her temporarily into our pack.
Anyway, for anyone who is getting discouraged or impatient about their dog's aggression, please show them this note, and tell them not to give up! It has taken two years, but with your help, I have taken a dog who seriously injured a smaller dog, and turned her into a dog that is able to politely socialize with other dogs - even those who are not entirely stable! Your techniques work, even on the hardest cases, with patience and persistence.
Thanks again for everything, and again sorry to hear about Diablo. He will always have a special place in my heart, as the first unfamiliar dog that Maggie was able to befriend.
Sincerely,
Keith
Hello Marc -
You may remember me - I worked with you over the summer of '06 with Maggie, a mixed-breed rescue, and Buddy, our Cocker Spaniel. I had been meaning to drop you a note to let you know that things are going very well with our dogs, and they get better and better all of the time.
I happened upon your blog and read your post about Diablo. Very sorry to read that you had to let him go. He was a spectacular dog. I remember how unbelievably calm he was, while Maggie was flying off the handle the first time that they were introduced. I think he deserves some credit for what you are about to read here.
You may recall that Maggie was a tough case around other dogs. It took us a while before we were able to take Maggie and Diablo around the block together. At one point, after several attempts at walking her towards Diablo and trying to get her to disengage, I remember you said that I might just have to cross the street when I saw another dog coming. My heart sank - but about 15 minutes later Maggie and Diablo were happily walking along side-by side, and I swore to myself that I was going to do everything in my power to teach Maggie how to politely socialize with unfamiliar dogs. I knew you would like to know that we have been successful with Maggie.
We went through an extended period of time where Maggie knew what NOT to do around an unfamiliar dog - but she still had no idea what she was supposed to DO. So, I simply immersed her in observing dogs interacting socially. I would take her to dog parks and let her watch the other dogs play. I would let her watch Buddy interact with other dogs from a distance. Finally, I started to let her approach calm dogs on our walk. You should have seen her body language! She just SCREAMED alpha! But she was able to communicate her 'princess' status, without triggering dominance or fear in the other dog, and in most cases the dog would submit, and she was able to finally experience sniffing, and being sniffed by, another dog.
In the last couple of weeks, Maggie has:
- Interacted with an enormous male Labrador - he barks at us when he first sees us, and runs over - but then takes a submissive posture and even lays down near her
- interacted similarly with a small male bloodhound
- Been charged by a barking Maltese, and used her body language to calm the dog down, sniffing each other and interacting, without another sound
- Had a female dog, about the same size, walk up unseen behind her, and shove it's nose right in her rump. Again, no growl, no snarl, no snap - just polite interaction
- played with a golden retriever pup on a walk - a pup who was very excited, putting his paws in her face, etc. She would growl to correct, and the pup would roll over for her. This was HUGE - an oncoming leash-walked dog was one of her worst triggers
- Had a play date with the male german shepard mix puppy next door - this is an excited dog with a strong dominant streak. He wouldn't let up, and she made a lot of noise to try to correct him - and even snapped - but never made contact. I am working with my neighbor to help him increase his control over this wonderful pup. They now greet each other politely at the fence, and we will have another play date soon.
- Had a very polite exchange with a calm but curious off-leash collie. I had Maggie on a long leash and I actually had this collie following us around the field! Maggie simply sniffed the collie and accepted her temporarily into our pack.
Anyway, for anyone who is getting discouraged or impatient about their dog's aggression, please show them this note, and tell them not to give up! It has taken two years, but with your help, I have taken a dog who seriously injured a smaller dog, and turned her into a dog that is able to politely socialize with other dogs - even those who are not entirely stable! Your techniques work, even on the hardest cases, with patience and persistence.
Thanks again for everything, and again sorry to hear about Diablo. He will always have a special place in my heart, as the first unfamiliar dog that Maggie was able to befriend.
Sincerely,
Keith
Saturday, July 5, 2008
My beautiful dog
There are very few photos which sum up a lifetime.
Although they say a picture is worth a thousand words, a relationship is so complex, composed of so many little pieces that it is difficult for one picture to capture its essence. The picture on this page is of my dog Diablo and me.
For me, this photo really shows the essence of our connection. I am clearly happy in this picture. My dog is close, he’s licking my face, and yet, I’m distracted by my obligation to look at the photographer. But look at Diablo. He is focused on only one thing...me. He is not distracted by the photographer. He feels no obligation to attend anything in this moment other than me.
That was one beautiful dog.
Diablo was not the smartest dog I have ever owned, nor was he the least intelligent. However, he was among the most devoted, the most “good” and one of the closest to my heart. During our time together, he unexpectedly saved my life. Then I saved his. The only thing harder than letting him go would have been not letting him go when it was time.
Diablo taught me a lot about what is important in life. He never met a person who was not his friend. His basic assumption was that all people and all dogs are friends unless and until they prove themselves otherwise. He was rarely disappointed.
I only hope I can be as good as him, to always see the best in people, to always find some pleasure in any job I must do, just as Diablo enjoyed training, as though the process was far more important than the results.
Take a moment to enjoy your dog. I know that I’m looking at Tippy and Scooter in a new way, as dogs with whom I’m sharing this process called Life, realizing that we’re lucky to have one another even though we may occasionally have differences in terms of what we want from one another.
Memories last a lifetime. And as I’m learning, beautiful memories make for a beautiful life.
The new Dog Farm
A few weeks ago we made the big move to the new dog farm. We're on 2.5 acres, abutting thousands of acres of forest preserve, so there's more than enough space for the dogs to move around, and enjoy. We do have lots of critters out here but they have moved back much farther into the preserve since the dogs took up residence and marked the perimeter.
I'm already seeing the difference in my own dog's behavior. Tippy, a Border Collie has settled right into Farm Dog...exploring the property, helping me round up the dogs in for training, teaching them to place nicely with other dogs, and hanging out on the deck.
Scooter, a Rat Terrier, gets her nose into all sorts of burrows and tracks the field mice all over. She doesn't seem very interested in killing things which is a plus. But she's also far calmer since she gets to zip around and stay busy with "terrier jobs."
Today, three Weimaraners were in for training. All three enjoyed running the property, and quickly learned to come when called in the huge back pasture. The best part for them was being able to run and enjoy the space, and of course, their owners were happy that the dogs came in as called....a very new skill for these dogs. We'll be sharpening that up a lot in a couple of lessons to come, but all was well on the dog farm today.
I'm already seeing the difference in my own dog's behavior. Tippy, a Border Collie has settled right into Farm Dog...exploring the property, helping me round up the dogs in for training, teaching them to place nicely with other dogs, and hanging out on the deck.
Scooter, a Rat Terrier, gets her nose into all sorts of burrows and tracks the field mice all over. She doesn't seem very interested in killing things which is a plus. But she's also far calmer since she gets to zip around and stay busy with "terrier jobs."
Today, three Weimaraners were in for training. All three enjoyed running the property, and quickly learned to come when called in the huge back pasture. The best part for them was being able to run and enjoy the space, and of course, their owners were happy that the dogs came in as called....a very new skill for these dogs. We'll be sharpening that up a lot in a couple of lessons to come, but all was well on the dog farm today.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Separation Anxiety
Annie is a miniature poodle owned and loved by "L." Although she cares about Annie very much, L was exasperated by Annie's separation anxiety. The little dog could not be apart from her or she would become extremely stressed out, drooling buckets, nearly to dehydration. This situation became very stressful for not only Annie, but also L.
Annie had earlier been treated with two different medications by her vet for Separation Anxiety. Although these drugs can be helpful in some cases, neither helped Annie at all. L was at the end of her rope. She was starting to think she would have to give up on the dog. She came to me although she didn't really believe there was a solution. L, Annie and I spent three hours together in a Pack Leader Session.
Here is the letter I received from L a couple of days later:
I want to thank you for your help with Annie. I did not have any faith when we came that there was anything else that could be done to change her behavior, I thought I had tried all that could be done. This was her last chance to stay in our home.
Well, we already see a change. She does very well on the walks, it takes just a few houses at the start and then she settles in to my pace. The first day she was mad at me, would not look at or come by me and when I called her she would crawl to me with her head down, but she did go into her cage with only a small amount of help. The first night in the cage took maybe 20 minutes for her to settle down and she did drool but not as much as usual. Last night was maybe 10 minutes and almost no drool. She goes in several times during the day when I am in the room and does fairly well. She still does not like going in but will take the last few steps on her own. She is not getting the affection until after her walk or doing something I asked her to do. She loves the new food, no problem with it sitting there for later, she gobbles it down right away.
I am hoping she will continue to improve as we learn to give her what she needs. I have never had to work at my dogs happiness before and it a strange concept but I understand the why's and have seen some results so far. So we would like to thank you and we will be in touch to let you know how she is doing.
One of the problems I uncovered in the Pack Leader Session was nutritional. Canine nutrition is a subject I have studied, and although I do not claim to be a scientist, I do know how to read a dog food label. You wouldn't think that this would be a complex subject. However, AAFCO, the governing body of dog food manufacturers is composed OF dog food manufacturers. Needless to say, their labeling rules can be confusing. Deliberately so.
Anyway, Annie was being fed a very popular food so L thought she was doing a good job of nutrition. Yet, reading the label, we found that corn was the first ingredient. Corn does contain protein but is not easily digested by dogs. The second ingredient was "chicken by product meal" which translates to super-concentrated powder made of beaks, toenails, intestines and feathers. (No, I'm not kidding.)
So part of the therapy for Annie was to change the diet to a digestible one featuring high quality animal protein with zero "by products" on the label. That alone should help her brain as her body begins to receive proper nourishment.
The other problems involved L herself. L loves her dog so she did spend a great deal of time with her. She did walk her dog sometimes. But she was walking her wrong. Believe it or not, if you allow your dog to pull you and be unfocused on the walk, your walk not only doesn't help your relationship, it hurts. Annie was sure from leading on the walks that she was also the leader in the house. And, as a leader, she didn't ever choose to be separated from L. When forced to be apart, even for a short time, Annie would go to pieces. So part of our approach was to walk Annie appropriately...great exercise for dog and mistress both.
A schedule of crating and uncrating Annie without actually leaving the house also is helping L to show Annie that it's ok to be apart occasionally.
Each case of Separation Anxiety is different, so I modify the approach for each dog depending on the family's lifestyle and on the dog's individual needs. Dog psychology is not a recipe book, the same for every dog, every time. The magic is in knowing how to combine the ingredients as perfectly as possible for every unique situation.
Separation Anxiety cannot usually be trained away by conventional dog training. Usually, there is something amiss in the dog's relationship to her family and environment. We must get to the bottom of the problem, and create positive solutions to eliminate this anxiety problem. Dogs who suffer from SA range from mildly neurotic all the way through extreme panic. It's sad to see a dog living in a fear state. And many dogs die each year because their owners don't know what to do so they give them away and often, they get put down.
I'm glad little Annie gets to stay home and is learning to adapt to life with her family.
Addendum July 2008.
I got a call from a husband and wife who had adopted Annie. Apparently the original family simply had too much going on at home to cope with the dog. The new people seemed very interested in helping this dog succeed. So I invited them to the farm for a chat about what they could do for Annie.
When Annie got to the farm I could already see she was a new dog. She was not tense or anxious like the previous time I had seen her. She was far more relaxed, open, curious and tail wagging. We had a chat about how to keep Annie from reverting to Separation Anxiety behavior and I have a strong feeling this family will work out for Annie. Looks like a success story to me.
Annie had earlier been treated with two different medications by her vet for Separation Anxiety. Although these drugs can be helpful in some cases, neither helped Annie at all. L was at the end of her rope. She was starting to think she would have to give up on the dog. She came to me although she didn't really believe there was a solution. L, Annie and I spent three hours together in a Pack Leader Session.
Here is the letter I received from L a couple of days later:
I want to thank you for your help with Annie. I did not have any faith when we came that there was anything else that could be done to change her behavior, I thought I had tried all that could be done. This was her last chance to stay in our home.
Well, we already see a change. She does very well on the walks, it takes just a few houses at the start and then she settles in to my pace. The first day she was mad at me, would not look at or come by me and when I called her she would crawl to me with her head down, but she did go into her cage with only a small amount of help. The first night in the cage took maybe 20 minutes for her to settle down and she did drool but not as much as usual. Last night was maybe 10 minutes and almost no drool. She goes in several times during the day when I am in the room and does fairly well. She still does not like going in but will take the last few steps on her own. She is not getting the affection until after her walk or doing something I asked her to do. She loves the new food, no problem with it sitting there for later, she gobbles it down right away.
I am hoping she will continue to improve as we learn to give her what she needs. I have never had to work at my dogs happiness before and it a strange concept but I understand the why's and have seen some results so far. So we would like to thank you and we will be in touch to let you know how she is doing.
One of the problems I uncovered in the Pack Leader Session was nutritional. Canine nutrition is a subject I have studied, and although I do not claim to be a scientist, I do know how to read a dog food label. You wouldn't think that this would be a complex subject. However, AAFCO, the governing body of dog food manufacturers is composed OF dog food manufacturers. Needless to say, their labeling rules can be confusing. Deliberately so.
Anyway, Annie was being fed a very popular food so L thought she was doing a good job of nutrition. Yet, reading the label, we found that corn was the first ingredient. Corn does contain protein but is not easily digested by dogs. The second ingredient was "chicken by product meal" which translates to super-concentrated powder made of beaks, toenails, intestines and feathers. (No, I'm not kidding.)
So part of the therapy for Annie was to change the diet to a digestible one featuring high quality animal protein with zero "by products" on the label. That alone should help her brain as her body begins to receive proper nourishment.
The other problems involved L herself. L loves her dog so she did spend a great deal of time with her. She did walk her dog sometimes. But she was walking her wrong. Believe it or not, if you allow your dog to pull you and be unfocused on the walk, your walk not only doesn't help your relationship, it hurts. Annie was sure from leading on the walks that she was also the leader in the house. And, as a leader, she didn't ever choose to be separated from L. When forced to be apart, even for a short time, Annie would go to pieces. So part of our approach was to walk Annie appropriately...great exercise for dog and mistress both.
A schedule of crating and uncrating Annie without actually leaving the house also is helping L to show Annie that it's ok to be apart occasionally.
Each case of Separation Anxiety is different, so I modify the approach for each dog depending on the family's lifestyle and on the dog's individual needs. Dog psychology is not a recipe book, the same for every dog, every time. The magic is in knowing how to combine the ingredients as perfectly as possible for every unique situation.
Separation Anxiety cannot usually be trained away by conventional dog training. Usually, there is something amiss in the dog's relationship to her family and environment. We must get to the bottom of the problem, and create positive solutions to eliminate this anxiety problem. Dogs who suffer from SA range from mildly neurotic all the way through extreme panic. It's sad to see a dog living in a fear state. And many dogs die each year because their owners don't know what to do so they give them away and often, they get put down.
I'm glad little Annie gets to stay home and is learning to adapt to life with her family.
Addendum July 2008.
I got a call from a husband and wife who had adopted Annie. Apparently the original family simply had too much going on at home to cope with the dog. The new people seemed very interested in helping this dog succeed. So I invited them to the farm for a chat about what they could do for Annie.
When Annie got to the farm I could already see she was a new dog. She was not tense or anxious like the previous time I had seen her. She was far more relaxed, open, curious and tail wagging. We had a chat about how to keep Annie from reverting to Separation Anxiety behavior and I have a strong feeling this family will work out for Annie. Looks like a success story to me.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
It's your first day...let's do EVERYTHING!
Today's interesting phone call was from a very nice guy, a man who has adopted a 6 month old Lab Pit mix. Unfortunately, many people won't even consider a Pit or Pit mix. Yes, some of them can be challenging. On the other hand, so many of them are affectionate, balanced, intelligent and sensitive.
So right off the bat I liked the called because his heart is utterly in the right place. He told me, however, that he was a bit concerned. He's had the puppy for only a week and a half but she's already showing some signs of nervousness and defensiveness.
Since he had only adopted the dog a few days earlier, I asked him about the puppy's first few days.
"Well," he said, "we wanted her to have a fairly quiet first day, so we only took her to PetSmart and then let her play with some of the neighbor's dogs. That was it."
That was it? That was a lot from my perspective. So we talked more about that first day. At the pet store, people and dogs came to greet the new puppy. When she got home, some of the older neighbor dogs were out playing so he introduced his puppy to them.
At first, the caller told me, the puppy played very nicely, wagging her tail. But the other dogs were bigger and older, and as the play got a little rougher, she began to withdraw. Since that time, she is not as open about letting other dogs approach her. Sometimes she hackles, shows teeth or growls.
The basis for this behavior I believe is clearly fear motivated. On her very first day, nice but strange people whisked her away from her home, brought her to a busy public place filled with unfamiliar sights, smells and sounds. Then after another car ride, she was thrust into a dog pack. As the newest member, the others approached her in a group. She was friendly with them, but as they ramped up a bit, this poor pup simply felt overwhelmed.
Her response? She is now making her own decisions about what she wants near her. Because her initial experiences were frightening, the puppy has decided that perhaps her world isn't so safe after all. And she's taking steps to warn others away when she is fearful.
This is really a shame because those first few days should have been quiet ones, with ample time to merely absorb the new environment of the house where she's living along with slowly getting to know the human pack with whom she lives. The puppy would quickly have come to trust the family and then, introduced slowly to new situations and dogs, one at a time, I'm sure she would have been far more relaxed. The problem behaviors might not have surfaced at all.
Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer states that a dog's breed tells that dog what to do with excess energy. I believe that is true. But a dog's breed also tells that dog what to do with anxiety. So a Pit cross feeling overly anxious is more likely to default to warning with a growl, whereas a young Golden Retriever might be more likely to cower on the ground when frightened.
The good news for this dog owner is that his puppy is young, and these mistakes were only made a short time ago. We could easily help restore her confidence and educate the family on how to manage their dog's environment to produce a stable, relaxed dog. Balanced, relaxed dogs do not aggress without real justification. So we expect to help this family become successful with their dog in short order.
Next time you bring home a new dog, spend that first several days calmly and quietly with only the most necessary introductions. Give your dog or puppy time to acclimate and actually trust you. After all, you'll be introducing him to tons of new people and places. Once you understand your puppy's needs, he'll trust you when you want to show him he has nothing to fear.
So right off the bat I liked the called because his heart is utterly in the right place. He told me, however, that he was a bit concerned. He's had the puppy for only a week and a half but she's already showing some signs of nervousness and defensiveness.
Since he had only adopted the dog a few days earlier, I asked him about the puppy's first few days.
"Well," he said, "we wanted her to have a fairly quiet first day, so we only took her to PetSmart and then let her play with some of the neighbor's dogs. That was it."
That was it? That was a lot from my perspective. So we talked more about that first day. At the pet store, people and dogs came to greet the new puppy. When she got home, some of the older neighbor dogs were out playing so he introduced his puppy to them.
At first, the caller told me, the puppy played very nicely, wagging her tail. But the other dogs were bigger and older, and as the play got a little rougher, she began to withdraw. Since that time, she is not as open about letting other dogs approach her. Sometimes she hackles, shows teeth or growls.
The basis for this behavior I believe is clearly fear motivated. On her very first day, nice but strange people whisked her away from her home, brought her to a busy public place filled with unfamiliar sights, smells and sounds. Then after another car ride, she was thrust into a dog pack. As the newest member, the others approached her in a group. She was friendly with them, but as they ramped up a bit, this poor pup simply felt overwhelmed.
Her response? She is now making her own decisions about what she wants near her. Because her initial experiences were frightening, the puppy has decided that perhaps her world isn't so safe after all. And she's taking steps to warn others away when she is fearful.
This is really a shame because those first few days should have been quiet ones, with ample time to merely absorb the new environment of the house where she's living along with slowly getting to know the human pack with whom she lives. The puppy would quickly have come to trust the family and then, introduced slowly to new situations and dogs, one at a time, I'm sure she would have been far more relaxed. The problem behaviors might not have surfaced at all.
Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer states that a dog's breed tells that dog what to do with excess energy. I believe that is true. But a dog's breed also tells that dog what to do with anxiety. So a Pit cross feeling overly anxious is more likely to default to warning with a growl, whereas a young Golden Retriever might be more likely to cower on the ground when frightened.
The good news for this dog owner is that his puppy is young, and these mistakes were only made a short time ago. We could easily help restore her confidence and educate the family on how to manage their dog's environment to produce a stable, relaxed dog. Balanced, relaxed dogs do not aggress without real justification. So we expect to help this family become successful with their dog in short order.
Next time you bring home a new dog, spend that first several days calmly and quietly with only the most necessary introductions. Give your dog or puppy time to acclimate and actually trust you. After all, you'll be introducing him to tons of new people and places. Once you understand your puppy's needs, he'll trust you when you want to show him he has nothing to fear.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Dog training tools
One of the most controversial aspects of training dogs relates to what tool(s) you should use, and which you should avoid. Every tool invented seems to have supporters, and a group of people who believe them to be horrible.
Yet, I have found "it's not the tool, it's the fool." What I mean by that is that most dog training tools can be used effectively and humanely. It is the skill and compassion of the hands using the tool that make the difference.
For example, I have seen choke chains used ineffectively and they can become uncomfortable for the dog. Dogs who are allowed to constantly pull on them may gag and choke. Yet this was never the intended use of the choke or slip chain collar. If you merely give a quick snap of the collar with minimal force, the collar opens and closes very quickly, does not choke or hurt the dog at all, but can be used to help the dog achieve the correct walking position...one with a loose leash.
Head halters such as the Gentle Leader or Halti were developed to control dogs, and stop pulling without use of the choke chain. Used correctly, they can do just that. Once again, however, this is a tool--like ALL tools--which can be accidentally abused merely by using it wrong. Challenges with head halters include the fact that many dogs react hysterically the first time it is introduced. The dog may panic at the unfamiliar and controlling sensation they first get from a head halter.
Therefore, a calm and educated introduction is crucial to having success with these tools. If the owner or trainer pulls hard on the leash, a head halter could panic the dog more, or twist the dog's neck unduly. This is not the intended use of any head halter. A pro will teach a dog in just a few moments that walking nicely on a loose leash is quite comfortable for the dog. And that pulling on the leash will place pressure on the dog's muzzle. Here's the critical part: when that pressure happens, most dogs will struggle because they don't know how to solve the problem. Gently helping the dog to achieve a loose leash again calms him down and allows him to learn that walking at side is always comfortable.
You'd think that the simple clicker would not evoke much trouble. Yet, like every other aspect of dogs and dog training, you'll find those who love them and those who laugh at them. Contrary to what much of the public may believe, there is no magic in the click itself. Trainers first teach the dog that the noise means he'll get a treat. Then they help the dog offer behaviors which the trainer wants. When they get the behavior, the trainer clicks and treats.
So where's the controversy? You can't harm a dog with treats can you? No you cannot. However, some behaviors do not lend themselves to easily, quickly or ever being remedies with a treat based training program. Some owners have diligently followed the program to fix car chasing, but have still lost their dogs because the clicker training program did not work fast enough, or did not work at all for that particular problem. In general, if the distraction is more enticing that the treat, dogs will ignore the treat in favor of the distraction. Under the wrong set of circumstances, the results of ignoring training can be deadly.
Remote training collars come in many varieties, from inexpensive with few options, all the way to quite costly with a big range of choices. Years ago, this tool was known simply as the "shock collar." That's because they only featured one level of stimulation, a painful jolt. They had very limited use, and only to solve life threatening problems such as teaching hunting dogs to avoid rattle snakes. There is no denying that the original use of the "shock collar" was to give pain. That is why this tool became, and may remain, and the most controversial of all.
Still, much has evolved in the thirty or forty years since electronic collars were first developed. First, and most important of all, remote training collars now feature levels of stimulation so gentle that humans and dogs can barely feel them if at all. Second, those levels are now adjustable so that they slowly creep up until the dog can just feel them, but not be troubled by them in the same way that you feel it when a friend taps you on the shoulder but it doesn't hurt. Third, training techniques such as the ForceFree Method have been developed allowing highly skilled, compassionate trainers to get a dog's attention without hurting him.
All dog training is, or should be, about getting a dog's attention. Once your dog is willing look away from the cat, or stop chasing the car in favor of looking at you, we have a wonderful opportunity to give the dog new information. What if we could show the dog, at moments like this, that his owner's behavior choices are more rewarding than chasing cats or cars? What if the owner had a better game ready, and all the dog has to do is pass up the forbidden game in favor of his owner's preferred selection?
Here's what we get if we use a remote collar in this manner, in the ForceFree Method manner...we get a dog who enjoys the entire training process, a dog not being yanked, twisted, shocked or in pain. We also get a dog who can run free off the leash in short order, and a dog who really lives life to the fullest.
Yet, I have found "it's not the tool, it's the fool." What I mean by that is that most dog training tools can be used effectively and humanely. It is the skill and compassion of the hands using the tool that make the difference.
For example, I have seen choke chains used ineffectively and they can become uncomfortable for the dog. Dogs who are allowed to constantly pull on them may gag and choke. Yet this was never the intended use of the choke or slip chain collar. If you merely give a quick snap of the collar with minimal force, the collar opens and closes very quickly, does not choke or hurt the dog at all, but can be used to help the dog achieve the correct walking position...one with a loose leash.
Head halters such as the Gentle Leader or Halti were developed to control dogs, and stop pulling without use of the choke chain. Used correctly, they can do just that. Once again, however, this is a tool--like ALL tools--which can be accidentally abused merely by using it wrong. Challenges with head halters include the fact that many dogs react hysterically the first time it is introduced. The dog may panic at the unfamiliar and controlling sensation they first get from a head halter.
Therefore, a calm and educated introduction is crucial to having success with these tools. If the owner or trainer pulls hard on the leash, a head halter could panic the dog more, or twist the dog's neck unduly. This is not the intended use of any head halter. A pro will teach a dog in just a few moments that walking nicely on a loose leash is quite comfortable for the dog. And that pulling on the leash will place pressure on the dog's muzzle. Here's the critical part: when that pressure happens, most dogs will struggle because they don't know how to solve the problem. Gently helping the dog to achieve a loose leash again calms him down and allows him to learn that walking at side is always comfortable.
You'd think that the simple clicker would not evoke much trouble. Yet, like every other aspect of dogs and dog training, you'll find those who love them and those who laugh at them. Contrary to what much of the public may believe, there is no magic in the click itself. Trainers first teach the dog that the noise means he'll get a treat. Then they help the dog offer behaviors which the trainer wants. When they get the behavior, the trainer clicks and treats.
So where's the controversy? You can't harm a dog with treats can you? No you cannot. However, some behaviors do not lend themselves to easily, quickly or ever being remedies with a treat based training program. Some owners have diligently followed the program to fix car chasing, but have still lost their dogs because the clicker training program did not work fast enough, or did not work at all for that particular problem. In general, if the distraction is more enticing that the treat, dogs will ignore the treat in favor of the distraction. Under the wrong set of circumstances, the results of ignoring training can be deadly.
Remote training collars come in many varieties, from inexpensive with few options, all the way to quite costly with a big range of choices. Years ago, this tool was known simply as the "shock collar." That's because they only featured one level of stimulation, a painful jolt. They had very limited use, and only to solve life threatening problems such as teaching hunting dogs to avoid rattle snakes. There is no denying that the original use of the "shock collar" was to give pain. That is why this tool became, and may remain, and the most controversial of all.
Still, much has evolved in the thirty or forty years since electronic collars were first developed. First, and most important of all, remote training collars now feature levels of stimulation so gentle that humans and dogs can barely feel them if at all. Second, those levels are now adjustable so that they slowly creep up until the dog can just feel them, but not be troubled by them in the same way that you feel it when a friend taps you on the shoulder but it doesn't hurt. Third, training techniques such as the ForceFree Method have been developed allowing highly skilled, compassionate trainers to get a dog's attention without hurting him.
All dog training is, or should be, about getting a dog's attention. Once your dog is willing look away from the cat, or stop chasing the car in favor of looking at you, we have a wonderful opportunity to give the dog new information. What if we could show the dog, at moments like this, that his owner's behavior choices are more rewarding than chasing cats or cars? What if the owner had a better game ready, and all the dog has to do is pass up the forbidden game in favor of his owner's preferred selection?
Here's what we get if we use a remote collar in this manner, in the ForceFree Method manner...we get a dog who enjoys the entire training process, a dog not being yanked, twisted, shocked or in pain. We also get a dog who can run free off the leash in short order, and a dog who really lives life to the fullest.
Leadership Threshold
Question: What do I do about my dog? Because I am also a dog trainer, he is well trained in obedience exercises and does well with heeling, sit, down, stay, come and go to bed. However, he has twice growled at me when I tried to take something away from him. And he is domineering and sometimes aggressive with the other dogs in my household. Once or twice I could barely get him to stop a fighting incident. At times he won't even let a client approach their own dog. I've taken to putting a muzzle on him when he's out with the other dogs.
Answer: Life is complicated for dog trainers because new dogs are constantly coming and going from our homes. Pack life is even more complicated for our dogs when we do board/train, and there are many pieces of the puzzle to look at. But here's the stuff I find interesting or curious.
He has only growled at you over resources twice in his life, but you've only had him two years, so I assume those episodes were very early on. Otherwise, they were recent enough to have bearing. A dog who will get into a scrap (which I take to mean fight when you can't get him off) and not respond to physical intervention or known commands is trained on the intellectual level but not on the primal level. What I mean is that he has been trained to a skill set but not to balanced thinking about life in a pack...a pack where some of the members are permanent and some are temporary.
A skill set is sit, down, stay...etc. Primal level training are all those things we do that are not related to developing a specific skill but which set the social order into an organized structure...walking through the dog's space, being sure (really sure) we control all of the dogs' resources, and managing interplay between pack members. To me it sounds like he has one and not enough of the other. So you have a dog who is capable of a great obedience demo for clients, but who won't then let a client's own dog approach them after a board/train.
This makes me wonder whether you have been obviously enough in control for THIS particular dog. He may have a much higher Leadership Threshold than the others. By that I mean his personal requirements to recognize and yield to effective control by another. Maybe his LT is unreasonably high even. But it doesn't matter...it is what it is. And you have to step up to provide that level or he'll continue to make his own decisions. Not often, but once in a blue moon, I see a dog who I think is better equipped to live in a single pet household, not so his needs can be slavishly met, but because his leadership needs are so high that there's not enough leader to go around.
I'd eliminate entirely his opportunity to do wrong. I would only muzzle him when you were right the heck on top of him and the muzzle is only for those times he's quicker than you are, not for those times when you want to go about your business and know he's not eating anyone. Every time this dog is out of the crate, it's because you're using that time to work him through Leadership exercises. Period.
For months. I wouldn't even let him loose in the yard to pee. Too much independence going on in that head. I'd leash walk him for every pee and poo. Yes, I'd expose him to other dogs and not isolate him from the pack. That means he has to be out of the crate often, but on a leash, tethered to you, occupying only what space you allow for him. I do like the go to bed routine, but if you believe he's sitting there feeling like the king of his little bed fiefdom, he's better off in the crate.
Not every dog is cut out for life in a large pack. And some dogs have a much higher Leadership Threshold than others. When we find those two factors in the SAME dog, we have lots of work to do so that we can give that special dog as much attention as he needs in a calm and assertive way, and then carefully set him up for increasing success among other dogs.
A dog who will growl at you to warn you away from his toy or even bone is alerting you that you have a relationship problem. Solve that personal relationship problem first, then offer that dog lots of fair and clear guidance on how to behave in the Pack. This will help him to stop failing and begin a series of successes, one after the other.
Answer: Life is complicated for dog trainers because new dogs are constantly coming and going from our homes. Pack life is even more complicated for our dogs when we do board/train, and there are many pieces of the puzzle to look at. But here's the stuff I find interesting or curious.
He has only growled at you over resources twice in his life, but you've only had him two years, so I assume those episodes were very early on. Otherwise, they were recent enough to have bearing. A dog who will get into a scrap (which I take to mean fight when you can't get him off) and not respond to physical intervention or known commands is trained on the intellectual level but not on the primal level. What I mean is that he has been trained to a skill set but not to balanced thinking about life in a pack...a pack where some of the members are permanent and some are temporary.
A skill set is sit, down, stay...etc. Primal level training are all those things we do that are not related to developing a specific skill but which set the social order into an organized structure...walking through the dog's space, being sure (really sure) we control all of the dogs' resources, and managing interplay between pack members. To me it sounds like he has one and not enough of the other. So you have a dog who is capable of a great obedience demo for clients, but who won't then let a client's own dog approach them after a board/train.
This makes me wonder whether you have been obviously enough in control for THIS particular dog. He may have a much higher Leadership Threshold than the others. By that I mean his personal requirements to recognize and yield to effective control by another. Maybe his LT is unreasonably high even. But it doesn't matter...it is what it is. And you have to step up to provide that level or he'll continue to make his own decisions. Not often, but once in a blue moon, I see a dog who I think is better equipped to live in a single pet household, not so his needs can be slavishly met, but because his leadership needs are so high that there's not enough leader to go around.
I'd eliminate entirely his opportunity to do wrong. I would only muzzle him when you were right the heck on top of him and the muzzle is only for those times he's quicker than you are, not for those times when you want to go about your business and know he's not eating anyone. Every time this dog is out of the crate, it's because you're using that time to work him through Leadership exercises. Period.
For months. I wouldn't even let him loose in the yard to pee. Too much independence going on in that head. I'd leash walk him for every pee and poo. Yes, I'd expose him to other dogs and not isolate him from the pack. That means he has to be out of the crate often, but on a leash, tethered to you, occupying only what space you allow for him. I do like the go to bed routine, but if you believe he's sitting there feeling like the king of his little bed fiefdom, he's better off in the crate.
Not every dog is cut out for life in a large pack. And some dogs have a much higher Leadership Threshold than others. When we find those two factors in the SAME dog, we have lots of work to do so that we can give that special dog as much attention as he needs in a calm and assertive way, and then carefully set him up for increasing success among other dogs.
A dog who will growl at you to warn you away from his toy or even bone is alerting you that you have a relationship problem. Solve that personal relationship problem first, then offer that dog lots of fair and clear guidance on how to behave in the Pack. This will help him to stop failing and begin a series of successes, one after the other.
Monday, April 21, 2008
Inside Dog or Outside Dog?
Do you have an outside dog? In some parts of the country, it is almost unheard of to let a dog live outside in the yard. In other places, this is a fairly common way to keep the family pet. Living in suburban Chicago, I believed the weather was a factor. After all, we have hot summers and brutal winters. What dog could survive those extremes? Of course, as a professional dog trainer, I have colleagues in warmer climates such as in Texas and California where many families keep dogs outside year round.
A few years ago I discovered that the question of where to house the dog, inside or out, is just as much a matter of local culture as climate. I purchased a vacation home in rural Michigan and found that some of the neighbor dogs lived inside, like mine. Others had dog houses and fences, or chains and live outside in almost all weather conditions.
When talking to people about their outside dogs, I quickly learned that there were several common reasons for this housing arrangement. Yes, in some cases people simply believe a dog’s place is outside by the dog house. But in many other instances a behavior problem has caused the family to isolate the dog, outside the home. Some of the most common behaviors include housebreaking issues, barking problems and destructive chewing.
Invariably the dog’s owner has not invested the proper time to actually resolve those problems. And in fact, placing a dog outside may case new issues. Dogs left unattended for long periods of time often engage in boredom behaviors such as incessant barking and digging. If we merely train the dog to toilet outside and behave well in the home, you can enjoy a much richer experience as a pet owner than you can when your dog is chained or fenced outside.
Some people believe that the dog offers more protection for the family when outside the house, and this factors into the housing decision. In reality, a dog always offers more security to the home when kept inside. First, dogs left outside may bark so much that family and neighbors learn to ignore them. Second, a would-be burglar will find it an easy matter to just poison your dog if he really wants entry.
Think about it from the burglar’s point of view for a moment. Which is more frightening? Seeing a dog on a chain, or being surprised by the barking when you touch the doorknob? Some of the best watch dogs are not very impressive in terms of size. But they make up for size with extreme alertness and noise making. The sight of a Sheltie in the yard would not likely deter a criminal. However, a Sheltie in the home functions as an early warning system for anything unusual. More than anything else, burglars do not like to be surprised.
As a dog lover and trainer, I want more than to merely own a dog. I want to enjoy a profound relationship with my pets. In order to really share live on a deep level we must also share hearth and home. This means we must take the trouble to teach house rules to our dogs so they can stay out of trouble and truly become part of the family. Many dog trainers specialize in helping owners convert outside dogs to inside dogs. Did you think it can’t be done? Of course it can. We’ve housebroken and civilized thousands of grown dogs.
If you keep your dog outside, you have little more than a living lawn ornament. Bring your dog in, teach him how to function successfully, and you have a best friend who will sleep by your door, and keep one eye open for security.
A few years ago I discovered that the question of where to house the dog, inside or out, is just as much a matter of local culture as climate. I purchased a vacation home in rural Michigan and found that some of the neighbor dogs lived inside, like mine. Others had dog houses and fences, or chains and live outside in almost all weather conditions.
When talking to people about their outside dogs, I quickly learned that there were several common reasons for this housing arrangement. Yes, in some cases people simply believe a dog’s place is outside by the dog house. But in many other instances a behavior problem has caused the family to isolate the dog, outside the home. Some of the most common behaviors include housebreaking issues, barking problems and destructive chewing.
Invariably the dog’s owner has not invested the proper time to actually resolve those problems. And in fact, placing a dog outside may case new issues. Dogs left unattended for long periods of time often engage in boredom behaviors such as incessant barking and digging. If we merely train the dog to toilet outside and behave well in the home, you can enjoy a much richer experience as a pet owner than you can when your dog is chained or fenced outside.
Some people believe that the dog offers more protection for the family when outside the house, and this factors into the housing decision. In reality, a dog always offers more security to the home when kept inside. First, dogs left outside may bark so much that family and neighbors learn to ignore them. Second, a would-be burglar will find it an easy matter to just poison your dog if he really wants entry.
Think about it from the burglar’s point of view for a moment. Which is more frightening? Seeing a dog on a chain, or being surprised by the barking when you touch the doorknob? Some of the best watch dogs are not very impressive in terms of size. But they make up for size with extreme alertness and noise making. The sight of a Sheltie in the yard would not likely deter a criminal. However, a Sheltie in the home functions as an early warning system for anything unusual. More than anything else, burglars do not like to be surprised.
As a dog lover and trainer, I want more than to merely own a dog. I want to enjoy a profound relationship with my pets. In order to really share live on a deep level we must also share hearth and home. This means we must take the trouble to teach house rules to our dogs so they can stay out of trouble and truly become part of the family. Many dog trainers specialize in helping owners convert outside dogs to inside dogs. Did you think it can’t be done? Of course it can. We’ve housebroken and civilized thousands of grown dogs.
If you keep your dog outside, you have little more than a living lawn ornament. Bring your dog in, teach him how to function successfully, and you have a best friend who will sleep by your door, and keep one eye open for security.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
To die or not to die
Over the years, I have learned that dog trainers will not always agree on the best pathway to success with each dog. Like owners, trainers are individuals with opinions and biases. It can even be difficult to get trainers to agree on what tools should be used, let alone how to help any given dog.
I don't normally worry about other dog trainers condemning one another. That is background chatter that doesn't help clients or dogs. My interest isn't normally in being loved by other dog trainers. I do want to be loved by the dog, and hopefully appreciated by the owner.
But there is one thing that some trainers do that really bothers me. More and more, clients call me and go on to describe a fairly ordinary problem. Mind you, the problem might not be ordinary to them. But there is not much in the way of naughty dog behavior I have not already dealt with a few hundred times.
A nice lady called today about her one year old American Eskimo. The dog goes "ballistic" at the door when anyone rings the bell. The dog the lunges and barks and growls at the new person. No one yas been bitten yet...but she's concerned. The dog also picks up random objects and growls when the family tries to get them. Sometimes this dog likes the twin 8 year olds to hug him. Sometimes he growls at them.
From my perspective this is a fairly ordinary call. I, too, am concerned that someone could be bitten in the future. But I don't view this dog as psychotic or hopeless. To me, he sounds like any of the high energy dogs I meet who have had no training, very little exercise, and are finding naughty ways to release excessive energy. Concurrently, this young dog seems to have the social structure of the family out of whack. He is taking a leadership role, rather than becoming a good and contented pack follower.
What's needed here is a bit of training for both the dog and family. Nothing terribly out of the ordinary for me or thousands of other balanced dog trainers around the country. So the call didn't bother me. What bothers me very much is that like so many other clients, this one told me that another "dog person" listened to the story and believed the dog should be put down, that it was "too far gone" and "untrainable."
Now that bothers me a great deal. Why would a so called dog professional condemn a dog to death without even meeting it and doing an inperson evaluation...and without ever trying to work with it?
The answer is simple:
Ignorance.
Sadly, there are many trainers who do not know how to handle a situation. Rather than confess their own ignorance and embrace a learning opportunity, they take the simple step of condemning the dog. This is just wrong. On those rare occasions when I encounter a dog behavior situation I myself don't understand, I research for answers in the dog psychology literature, I contact colleagues and other dog professionals, and I don't give up merely because I don't know what to do at first.
As for that American Eskimo, I do know what to do to help him become a happier and civilized member of the family. And I will be happy to help the family achieve that goal.
As humans, let's remember our responsibilities for giving the best life possible to our dogs. And let's not listen to people who don't have any answer other than "get rid of the dog." I'd rather get rid of that trainer and find 0ne who does know what to do!
I don't normally worry about other dog trainers condemning one another. That is background chatter that doesn't help clients or dogs. My interest isn't normally in being loved by other dog trainers. I do want to be loved by the dog, and hopefully appreciated by the owner.
But there is one thing that some trainers do that really bothers me. More and more, clients call me and go on to describe a fairly ordinary problem. Mind you, the problem might not be ordinary to them. But there is not much in the way of naughty dog behavior I have not already dealt with a few hundred times.
A nice lady called today about her one year old American Eskimo. The dog goes "ballistic" at the door when anyone rings the bell. The dog the lunges and barks and growls at the new person. No one yas been bitten yet...but she's concerned. The dog also picks up random objects and growls when the family tries to get them. Sometimes this dog likes the twin 8 year olds to hug him. Sometimes he growls at them.
From my perspective this is a fairly ordinary call. I, too, am concerned that someone could be bitten in the future. But I don't view this dog as psychotic or hopeless. To me, he sounds like any of the high energy dogs I meet who have had no training, very little exercise, and are finding naughty ways to release excessive energy. Concurrently, this young dog seems to have the social structure of the family out of whack. He is taking a leadership role, rather than becoming a good and contented pack follower.
What's needed here is a bit of training for both the dog and family. Nothing terribly out of the ordinary for me or thousands of other balanced dog trainers around the country. So the call didn't bother me. What bothers me very much is that like so many other clients, this one told me that another "dog person" listened to the story and believed the dog should be put down, that it was "too far gone" and "untrainable."
Now that bothers me a great deal. Why would a so called dog professional condemn a dog to death without even meeting it and doing an inperson evaluation...and without ever trying to work with it?
The answer is simple:
Ignorance.
Sadly, there are many trainers who do not know how to handle a situation. Rather than confess their own ignorance and embrace a learning opportunity, they take the simple step of condemning the dog. This is just wrong. On those rare occasions when I encounter a dog behavior situation I myself don't understand, I research for answers in the dog psychology literature, I contact colleagues and other dog professionals, and I don't give up merely because I don't know what to do at first.
As for that American Eskimo, I do know what to do to help him become a happier and civilized member of the family. And I will be happy to help the family achieve that goal.
As humans, let's remember our responsibilities for giving the best life possible to our dogs. And let's not listen to people who don't have any answer other than "get rid of the dog." I'd rather get rid of that trainer and find 0ne who does know what to do!
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